October 5, 2013

RECIPES FROM NO. 10: FINEST HOUR 102, SPRING 1999

by Georgina Landemare (Churchill Family Cook, c. 1940s-50s) Updated & annotated by Barbara Langworth

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Qivoury is a British term initially used to describe a dish that is served after dessert to cleanse and refresh the palate. Today it more often refers to tidbits served as appetizers, as well as to more substantial dishes that can be served for lunch, high tea or light supper.

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Paste a choux is the stuff of cream puffs and eclairs. Mrs. Landemare makes a long puff filled with a shrimp mixture and a round puff filled with ham and chicken. I’ve used one pastry recipe to make some of each.

CHOUX PASTE (about 5 dozen bite-sized puffs)

1/4 lb butter
10 oz. water (1/2 pint UK, 1 1/4 cup US)
Pinch of salt
4 eggs
4 oz. (3/4 cup) flour

In a saucepan put water, butter and salt and bring to the boil. Mix the flour in all at once and beat well until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for a minute or two* then gradually add the 4 eggs one at a time. (*or transfer to food processor fitted with steel blade;add eggs. Process until mixture is blended, smooth and shiny, 30-45 seconds.)

Using a pastry tube or press make small puffs (profiteroles) by piping straight up and small eclairs piping sideways on a greased pastry sheet. Bake at 400° for 10 minutes and lower to 350° for 15-20 minutes more. Cool.

Whip 8 oz. heavy cream until stiff. Use half in each of these:

ECLAIRS AUX CREVETTES

Finely chop about 1/4 lb. cooked shrimp; add 1 tsp anchovy paste (recipe calls for “anchovy essence”) and cayenne pepper to taste. Stir in half the whipped cream. Split small eclairs on one side. Fill with mixture.

DUCHESSE ECARLATE

Finely chop about 1/4 lb. ham and chicken. Add cayenne pepper to taste and stir in half the whipped cream. Split open the profiteroles and fill with the mixture.